Tom & Sue's Incomplete Guide: Lowcountry Hiking and Beyond

Sue’s greeting: South Carolina is home to wonderful hiking trails. Together with our dog Iggy, we have enjoyed some very strenuous treks through upstate state parks, as well as some interesting flatter tracks in the midlands and here in the Lowcountry. On Daniel Island, we are fortunate to have 25 miles of walking paths that connect the neighborhoods with some remarkable marsh and nature areas, including Bellinger Island. There are 13 loops that are marked on sidewalks and sign posts by a colored dot and arrow. You can find an interactive map for the Daniel Island trail system here: dicommunity.org/community/parks-trails/. 

 

Here’s our top recommendations for other trails in the Lowcountry and throughout the state.

 

Tom’s greeting: Our go-to trail is along the Wando River waterfront where Sue and I often watch the sunrise. Iggy’s dichromatic vision lacks the receptors necessary for distinguishing the often-stunning shades of red as the sun breaks over the Wando River, which makes her sad. She is, however, a big fan of deer spotting, discouraging egrets and herons from perching atop footbridge railings and randomly being a nutjob or a princess when other dogs pass by. 

 

LOWCOUNTRY HIKES

 

Sue’s take: I’m a big fan of the Awendaw Passage, the last leg of the mountain-to-sea Palmetto Trail. We skip the section north of Highway 17, park at the Rosa Green Road lot and hike toward Buck Hall Recreation Area. If you like to canoe or kayak, there is a canoe launch at Rosa Green. It’s about a 4.25-mile hike to Buck Hall along the Intracoastal Waterway. It can be wet, so wear appropriate shoes. There are restrooms at Buck Hall, which also has campsites and a boat launch. 

 

During the early days of the COVID pandemic, when the lockdown was first lifted, we discovered additional local sections of the Palmetto Trail that go through the Francis Marion National Forest and make up part of the Swamp Fox Passage. The section between Halfway Creek Road and Highway 17 is well-traveled and wooded. In contrast, we rarely encounter people in the section leading from Halfway Creek Road toward Moncks Corner, probably because it is less shaded and buggier.

 

For maps and details about all sections of the Palmetto Trail, visit palmettoconservation.org.

 

Tom’s take: There’s a lot to like about the Awendaw Passage, but Hunting Island outside of Beaufort has a boneyard beach, trails along its many inlets, and a lighthouse. More importantly, there are at least three chocolate shops in Beaufort, with Kilwins being our favorite. Sue may say that hiking is about the sights, but for me, it is about the treats. 

 

URBAN HIKES

 

Sue’s take: For a very short trek through downtown Charleston, I enjoy the Gateway Walk. Originally built in 1930 to commemorate the 250th anniversary of the founding of Charles Town, the trail begins in the graveyard at St. John’s Lutheran Church on Archdale Street, continues through the grounds of the Unitarian Church, crosses King Street at the Charleston Library Society, meanders through the Gibbes Museum garden, crosses Meeting Street into the grounds of the Circular Church, and connects to the St. Phillips Church cemetery via a shared gate.

 

Tom’s take: By far, the best ‘Urban Hike’ Sue and I have taken is the San Antonio Riverwalk, which is decidedly not in the Lowcountry. Second place, however, is downtown Charleston. You can start at Colonial Lake, The Battery, Waterfront Park, or even over the bridge in Mount Pleasant – as long as your hike ends at Sabatino’s Pizza on Calhoun Street, it will be a memorable experience.

 

MIDLANDS HIKES

 

Sue’s take: I saw my first two water moccasins, and thankfully only, in Congaree National Park several years ago. We were on a raised footbridge and there was plenty of vertical distance between the snakes and us. Congaree has a few tent sites, a nice visitor center, and 10 marked trails (including a boardwalk), ranging from .6 to 12 miles and graded from easy to hard. The trails run through the largest intact expanse of old growth bottomland hardwood forest in the southeastern U.S. It is also popular for kayaking as both the Congaree and Wateree rivers run through it. The conditions vary as it is situated on a floodplain so check the park website for updates before heading out.

 

Tom’s take: OK, the South Carolina Midlands has a reputation of being godawfully hot, because it is. I’ve heard there are plenty of great parks and lakes to explore, but then I look at the weather forecast and say, “Not today, Satan.” I can confirm that Congaree, with its massive cypress trees that block out the sun, tends to be a few degrees cooler than downtown Columbia, but our air fryer is also a few degrees cooler than downtown Columbia in the summertime. It’s probably best to save Midlands explorations for the October to April months.

 

UPSTATE HIKES

 

Sue’s take: We like to frequent the state parks near Greenville and Travelers Rest. Caesars Head, Jones Gap and Table Rock state parks are in the same geographic area, have many trails, and they are all connected. We’ve found wonderful trails in and around all three parks. My favorite: The Dismal Trail to Raven Cliff Falls in Caesars Head. It is strenuous, challenging, at times fittingly-named, but well-worth the effort to discover the great waterfall setting to enjoy lunch and a rest.

 

Tom’s take: I have to go with Table Rock for two reasons: The views at the top of the trail are the best in the state; and the name “Table Rock” implies that lunch will be served once we make it to the top. Of course, it is the same food we brought with us, but even peanut butter and jelly sandwiches taste exceptional when you’ve spent hours hiking to the top of a mountain. 

 

CLOSING THOUGHTS

 

Sue’s take: There are so many options in the Lowcountry and throughout the state for a great hike. While nothing beats the convenience and accessibility of our local Daniel Island trails, it’s fun and rewarding to explore the entire state. 

 

Tom’s take: In these days of remote work, zoom calls and binge-watching entire seasons of the Mandalorian in one sitting, it’s easy to forget that just beyond our front doors is the whole outside. So, go on through that door, find a dog to walk, and hike a trail. Just beyond the next bend there could be an amazing sunrise, a waterfall, an otter playing in a creek, or an ice cream shop. You never know what you’ll find until you get out there and explore!